DIY LEDs

[jd]

Last week, I thought to myself: "I don't have enought projects going on already, so lets order some LEDs."

I got 3 for $10 online with free shipping. These are the lower output Crees, binned at p4, which is much lower output than the q5's (about ~25%)

Currently, these are being driving at 700mA, 70% of it potential brightness. If this driver can remain as efficient as it is now, there is a large cost saving potential as the circuit costs $1 to drive 6 LEDs vs $20 for those same six.

The circuit


The setup


The current setting resistor


What that resistor would look like if I had the right one on hand


Emitter


Output

[stickboy_107]

WOW is that just the one?  They are bright at just 70% 

[jd]

WOW is that just the one?  They are bright at just 70% 

Yes, just one. at 70% of rated current. Not to mention that the Q5's are a further 20% brighter. Looking to just one of these is like looking into a 175W Halide, they are that bright. I just tested all three hooked up together but they are getting hot without a heatsink.

[bkvreef]

how would these compare to a metal halide?  would they work on a reef, if so what level (softie, lps, sps, etc).  Is the heat similar to mh or more like t-5?

[cyberwollf]

how would these compare to a metal halide?  would they work on a reef, if so what level (softie, lps, sps, etc).  Is the heat similar to mh or more like t-5?

depending on the amount of LEDs and optics used they can easily beat the PAR of a 400w MH. Very low heat output, but they still require a heatsink to prevent emitter overheating and damage.

[HUNGER]

now thats bright

[reefman]

This is one of the next form of Aquarium Lighting. There are several threads on RC about it and I believe we have a few people in the Dayton Area working on lighting their reef tanks with LEDs

[jd]

how would these compare to a metal halide?  would they work on a reef, if so what level (softie, lps, sps, etc).  Is the heat similar to mh or more like t-5?

Cyberwollf summed it up really well. One thing worth noting is that they don't project heat like halides, but the LEDs themselves are hot. All of their energy is in a very narrow spectrum so little infrared heat in transferred.

[rayk]

What is your power supply for this little project?  And what would it be for a go-live?

I'd be very interested in lighting two 2 foot by 2 foot sections with some LEDs.  With my new 180, I still only have one 400 W MH light, which will be placed over the middle section.  My current plan is to take my old Icecap 660 balast and run 2 sets of 2 foot VHOs over the outer sections, and extend my current 4 foot actinic VHOs to 6 foot.    But if I can accomplish the same thing with less power used, that would be best.

- Rayk

[jd]

I'm using a PC power supply that I've modified into a bench top supply. If you mean the cost of a prebuilt system, it might run $1000 or more. A DIY one for 2 2x2" panels might be around $500. Not bad considering two ballasts, refelctors and bulbs can run that easy.

[cyberwollf]

but if you consider only wanting to "spotlight" a few corals, you can use 30degree optics to get 400W MH PAR in smaller sections.  If you wanted a clam in an otherwise dimmly lit section for example.

I think you could spotlight a few spots in the tank for a few hundered.  If you just hit the tops of a few sections of rocks for SPS level PAR, your VHO might be able to support LPS and other stuff in the "nonspotlighted" areas.

This is one of the beauties of LED lighting.  Its hard for us to break the mindset of uniform PAR throughout a certain depth, but for the first time LEDs allows us to just put the PAR where we need it (and possibly save money if we are smart about it)

[jd]

I'm building a little LED prototype today to stick over some test corals. News at 11.

[chromiumlux]

I have a friend on another site that is building LED lighting for his reef. The tank is quite large and the first panel will have like 24 leds in it. there are some threads on other sites where people are already having success with led lighting.

[HUNGER]

but how many leds do u need to compite  with mh ?

[cyberwollf]

Depends on what area you need to light? You can play tricks like mixing optics to get full coverage and high PAR spotlights. That's the thing, you don't really want to compare LEDs to MH. It's more about deciding what you want to light. If you want total coverage and completly +300 PAR, it's pretty pricey

[lazylivin]

It would be neat to just have a couple strategically placed over specific high light corals such as a birds-nest that needs crazy par to stay pink.

Check this out. Pricey but what a great concept. http://premiumaquatics.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=ledio

[HUNGER]

oOooOOo       ok

[cyberwollf]

21 watts of q5s can be diy'd for around $70

[lazylivin]

That is still pretty pricey but probably ideal in the long haul

[Wall_Tank]

You should get a cree and then burn it 24/7 and see how the light decay's overtime.

[cyberwollf]

You should get a cree and then burn it 24/7 and see how the light decay's overtime.

Their 50% point (or is it 75%) is at 50,000 hours.  So even 24/7 thats a few years lol

[Wall_Tank]

That is if you believe the data.

[cyberwollf]

That is if you believe the data.

I dont know if it is 50,000, But LEDs do retain brightness without degradation if not overdriven.  Im sure they came up with that from some analysis and HALT testing

[jd]

LED's have been around in one form or another for 100 years, there are some pretty set methods of testing them that are used. 11 years? Maybe not, with salt, water and humidity I would be surprised to see a fixture built now around in 2020. But I know they are more efficient, project less heat, and are wicked cool I plan on buying more and converting my desk lamp to use them. They create a nice white light. Uploading more pictures now.

[jd]

Should have PAR readings this weekend.